Step 1: Know Your Tire Size

Before you shop, find your vehicle's correct tire size. It's printed on the sidewall of your current tires in a format like 225/65R17 102H.

  • 225 β€” section width in millimeters
  • 65 β€” aspect ratio (sidewall height as % of width)
  • R17 β€” radial construction, 17-inch rim
  • 102H β€” load index (102) and speed rating (H = 130 mph)

You can also find the size on the sticker inside your driver's door jamb or in your owner's manual. Never install a tire with a lower load index or speed rating than your vehicle requires.

Pro tip: Buying all four tires from the same brand and model is ideal. If buying two, match the new tires to the existing two as closely as possible. Mismatched tires can cause AWD and electronic stability system issues.

Step 2: Find Reputable Shops

Not all used tire shops are equal. A good shop will let you inspect tires before mounting, show you the DOT date code, and stand behind their work. Red flags include:

  • Shops that mount tires before you can inspect them
  • No visible DOT code or the sidewall is scratched/altered
  • Prices that seem suspiciously low (often means worn or damaged tires)
  • Refuses to show you more than one option for your size

Look for shops with online reviews mentioning honest pricing, quality selection, and willingness to show tires before purchase. Browse shops in your city using our directory.

Step 3: Inspect Before You Buy

Insist on inspecting the tires before they're mounted. Any reputable shop will accommodate this. Here's exactly what to check:

Tread Depth

Use a tread depth gauge or the quarter test. Look for at least 6/32" across the full tread width. Check for uneven wear β€” wear that's heavier on one edge indicates an alignment problem on the previous vehicle. See our full tread depth guide.

Sidewall Condition

Run your hand around the entire sidewall. You're looking for:

  • Bulges or bubbles (sign of internal damage β€” reject immediately)
  • Deep cracks more than 1–2mm wide
  • Cuts or gashes that expose the steel belt or cord
  • Flat spots from locking brakes

DOT Date Code

Find the 4-digit code at the end of the DOT number on the sidewall. The first two digits are the week, the last two are the year. Avoid any tire older than 6 years, even with good tread.

Step 4: Negotiate the Price

Most used tire shops have pricing flexibility, especially if you're buying a set of four. Typical price ranges:

Economy size (compact, sedan)

$20–$45

per tire

Standard size (sedan, crossover)

$30–$65

per tire

Truck / SUV size (17" and up)

$45–$95

per tire

Buying 4 tires at once is your best negotiation leverage β€” ask for a "set price" and compare with at least 2 shops. Mounting and balancing should typically be included or cost $10–$20/tire.

If a tire has 8/32" or more of tread, it's worth paying the high end of the range β€” that much remaining life significantly extends the value of the purchase.

No good local option for your size? Compare prices online

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Step 5: After Mounting β€” What to Check

Even after a good inspection, newly mounted used tires need monitoring:

  • Drive slowly for the first mile β€” feel for any vibration or pulling
  • Check tire pressure after the first heat cycle (next day morning) β€” should be at the vehicle's specified PSI, found on the door jamb sticker
  • Inspect for slow leaks at 24 hours and 48 hours
  • If vibration persists, ask the shop to rebalance β€” this should be free within a short window
  • Get an alignment check within 1–2 weeks, especially if replacing all four

Common Mistakes to Avoid

βœ• Buying on price alone

Always inspect tread depth and DOT date. A $15 tire that’s 8 years old is worse than a $45 tire from 2 years ago.

βœ• Buying just one tire

When possible, buy in pairs β€” front/front or rear/rear. Mixing worn and new tires degrades handling balance.

βœ• Skipping the DOT date check

Rubber deteriorates with age regardless of appearance. A 7-year-old tire with great tread can fail without warning.

βœ• Not asking to inspect before mounting

Always insist on seeing the tire before it goes on. A mounted tire is much harder to return.

βœ• Ignoring sidewall damage

Tread depth doesn’t compensate for sidewall bulges, cuts, or cracks. The sidewall takes constant flexing forces.